Luigi Gully

My idea. I think it's the first and last time that 'Boss' will allow me to suggest a route. I was full of excitement at Lough Gouragh -deciding to do "Luigi Direct" from the Hag's Glen in to the old stone wall. Andy was leading as usual and we had some faithful sheep in tow. Andy, Maurice, Margaret & I.

It was dry at first but there were some wet & slimy sections. We used the sling at times. Up to the Heavenly Gates for lunch.

Some team members thought that the hardest part was over. I looked up. 'Luigi' is deeply cut and, at best, at times looks dark & menacing. There were some slimy, awkward places & we needed the sling to be hauled up. At one stage Margaret solo-climbed, slipped & landed beside us.

It was time to negotiate. Our leader, Andy, headed off with rope, countouring the slope, & eventually his voice was heard above us. Unknown to the poor mortals below, we were headed for the crux.

'C.O.' was next to climb. Up the route Margaret had tumbled off. We got to the top of the first section. Margaret & I decided it was easy - spoke too soon.

'C.O.' was in an area hidden from our view, enclosed by steep walls. A forlorn voice could be heard beseeching Andy: "I'm stuck". Hold tight.

Oh dear - we looked at each other. After what seemed a long time, Maurice landed gratefully beside Andy.

My turn - yikes. I was advised by Andy to veer right & up. I obliged by going up wet, slanting rock, then, hidden from Margaret's view I was confronted by a vertical wall of slime.

I looked up, left & right, in horror. Speechless. An ice axe could come in handy.

Extremely helpful advice shouted up by Margaret did no good. I was eventually hauled up by 'Boss', who must be wishing he was elsewhere. Margaret's turn now, and she found that her helpful advice earlier to me didn't help her either, so she got hauled up too.

On another pitch, Maurice & I were alongside on a sling up a rocky section. Away above a noise was heard.

Andy bellowed: "Below". Maurice & I both ducked. A rock bounced between us & ricoched down. It seemed a while before it hit base.

The smell of sulpher was strong. Poor Andy was the wounded hero. The rock had dislodged on the ridge above him and hit him on the foot, causing a tear on the boot, some curses and a bruised toe, but despite discomfort he held us on the sling.

Otherwise I would not be writing this or Maurice would not be editing it.

Later on we descended by the Heavenly Gates & looked up proudly & tiredly at Luigi Gully. I don't think we will be doing it in the near future.