By Patricia McGuirk.
THIS CLIMBING LARK OCT 06
A weekend planned in Wales – rockclimbing and hiking. Off we went via Andy’s new house in Knockreagh – incidentally a mountain of the same name overlooks Kenmare but I don’t think that bit of info meant much to the Boss.
A snack in Roscrea and then a clear run to Dun Laoghaire. It’s handy having a Dub on the team giving an easy route to the ferry.
All aboard the Seacat for a choppy seacrossing, lots of plans made, and Fluffy gets mobile phone tuition from the Boss about predictive text etc, etc.
There was an initial plan to do a rockclimb before booking into our hotel, but somehow that did not materialise. Maurice voiced caution, he is not a C.O. for nothing and all agreed that 3pm was too late to commence a climb on Milestone Buttress. A grateful rejuvenated Maurice went down on his knees to thank Andy for not going ahead with the climb.
So the quartet heads to Betsy y Coed. Lippy and I sharing a room. The lads each in a single room as Andy is inclined to snore a bit.
Full of enthusiasm we head to the Beacon climbing wall beyond Llanberis. As usual Andy knows all about it, and in no time at all, we are at the climbing wall.
Each had a few climbs including a few lead climbs. I faltered near the top, intent on retreat but a brisk command of “Get up there” had me scampering to the top of my lead climb. Talk about Hitler!
Margaret took it all in her stride. Top rope and lead climbs no problem and introduced me to the bouldering section.
Maurice and Andy teamed up doing impressive lead climbs. We think we climbed more than them, as anytime we glanced over, they seemed to be coiling ropes or talking whilst we were climbing!
Friday – breakfast 8am and out the door. We are all well trained. You don’t put your fingers on Andy’s car to open the boot. By Day 2 I had located the button to press to open the boot, much to Andy’s relief and peace of mind.
Tryffan's Heather Terrace beckoned so off we went on a dry cloudy morning uphill steeply feeling the loads. First Pinnacle Rib was the goal, but the weather dictated otherwise. By the time we got to the base of the climb, it was raining heavily and not suitable to climb.
A quick teamtalk resulted in an ascent to the col traversing a rocky slope. Deposited haversacks at the col, to do a quick ascent and descent of Tryffan’s summit though stalwart Andy carried his haversack up and down. A quick “Hello” to Adam and Eve, an even quicker turnaround, and back to the col.
Bristly Ridge was the next objective via the chimney. Loose and wet in the chimney, and hard with the heavy loads. Margaret took a tumble at the base but the C.O. was at hand to keep an eye and lend a hand. Exiting the top of the chimney with help from Andy’s sling. I sit down and wait for Margaret and Maurice. Then I’m told I’m going back down the chimney to retrieve fallen gear. Didn’t realise Boss has shaky hands. You don’t argue or protest with the Boss so I meekly backclimbed gingerly retrieved the carabiner and climbed easily back up the chimney under the gaze of interested onlookers below.
On up Bristly Ridge. A quick lunch sheltered by rocks. On up to the Clyders in low cloud. A ghostly place of boulders in the cloud, but taking time for a photo shoot on the cantilever and a stone armchair. A fast descent on the scree slope, and down by via the impressive Devils Kitchen for a welcome cuppa at Ogven Cottage.
Saturday – Snowdon beckoned, amidst heavy rain and wind. Up the face of Crib Goch and onto the ridge – Andy striding along as if he was on a dual carriageway getting muttered expletives from lesser mortal climbers as he strode past them into the fog. As for us three, we carefully picked our way along the ridge – it wasn’t the day or the place to lose your footing. On to a cold, wet, windy Snowdon summit invaded by hordes of people despite the inclement weather. A quick descent Pyg track.
Back to the climbing wall for a few more exercises. Andy on an impressive lead climb on a overhang. Maurice ventured high too on the lead climb, so did Margaret but I chose the top rope.
Sunday brought the promised dry cool sunny weather. So back to Heather Terrace for our second attempt on First Pinnacle Rib. Margaret had the climbing book and we had chosen this route. Off up the main track, I headed off at my own pace, assuming the rest of the team knew the route from the other day.
Well you should never make assumptions. I sat in the brief sunshine at the base of the climb, checked the details in the book, sauntered around and kept a lookout for my team-mates.
Time passed, then Andy was seen coming up the track, looking flustered and dishevelled, and dare I say a bit exhausted! Margaret up behind him not looking too fresh either!
Boss said Maurice was mislaid, so we downed gear and went downhill – Andy as ever not parting with his haversack.
As I write this, I’m still flabbergasted, trying to figure how all my team mates missed the straight forward obvious path (I thought) leading to Heather Terrace.
Poor Andy and Margaret overshot the turn and proceeded downhill only then realising that Heather Terrace was above. I’m sure the profanities were loud and explicit from the boss as they both trudged up a steep heathery slope to eventually regain the path.
In the meantime the C.O. had gone out of sight, so we were now still looking for him. Another group thought they saw him above the Terrace so Andy climbed up a gully to find the bold Maurice sitting on a rock pondering his next move.
The C.O. had climbed so high that Tryffan summit beckoned close by but Andy had his moment of fame as he strode up to Maurice in mountain rescue mode, to rescue Maurice from his rocky perch.
Maurice had ascended where eagles dare on a high traverse of Tryffan’s slopes, and so nearly had the distinction of climbing Tryffan twice in one day! The rescue gully is now Andy’s gully.
Even more interesting to note, our boss is one for gadgets and had provided a radio for himself and Maurice the other day. As an experienced team member, Maurice had the radio and used it to call Boss but amazingly Andy’s radio was safely sitting in his car (so that it would not be overused). None of the rest of us had radios or phones on the day the team went in all different directions.
There was a few comments about the leader (me this time) not waiting for the others, but I commented on the need for certain people to do navigation courses on a day when the path was clear of cloud.
Anyway Andy has another G.P.S. gadget to guide him in his car on the right road and route, but interestingly missed the big blue sign on the M50 for Limerick – apparently he was busy looking at roadworks. But then he does wear glasses for driving!
Anyway back to First Pinnacle Rib which we finally got to. A difficult climb in great weather. Andy in his element and at his powerful best leading an impressive climb. The yellow slab is a very difficult move, made easier by the fact that earlier we had done another very difficult hitch rather than the easier standard route. Just for fun and ever increasing confidence.
A few fun episodes on the climb. Andy strongly tempted to sock it to another climbing duo who were a bit grating on the eardrums and crossed our climbing line.
I decided to give boss a near heart attack by unroping halfway up a hitch. That’s confidence for you!
Poor Lippy couldn’t detach a recalcitrant box, so Andy abseiled to retrieve it but he even had extreme difficulty dislodging it.
Margaret returned the compliment by gracefully backclimbing thus to retrieve yet another piece of gear that Andy had dropped yet again! Those shaky hands or do we shatter his nerves!
Maurice took it all in his stride, calling on a few holy names at times.
Then we were on top, coming to Adam and Eve from a different angle, looking down on a team negotiating the last pitch on North Buttress. A quick late snack on top and an even quicker descent via Heather Terrace.
A most entertaining weekend. The main object being the climbs and hikes, but the banter and sheer fun made it really enjoyable.
Andy did all the driving and leading, loved dropping gear, in full mountain rescue mode, and gave Lippy such a strong helping hand that he nearly landed her at Pen y Pass.
Margaret was the main entertainer always with the last word, keeping an eye on Maurice who really went where eagles dare on that high traverse.
And me? Well I also retrieved gear, surprised myself with my climbing, looking forward to the next weekend away.
To finish on a high note – we just barely made the ferry. The last car on, and the doors started to close. We like to live dangerously.
